Souks
& the City: Escape to Marrakech
The Travel & Leisure Magazine
"Peegeensheet", my guide kept repeating, pointing
at the stinking stone vats of Marrakech's back street
tannery where all around me animal hides were soaking. The phrase,
and indeed the smell, seemed familiar but it was only when he
resorted to the French expletive "merde!" that I
was sure: the vessels were indeed filled with pigeon excrement.
Apparently, this unusual marinade helps season the hides
in the early stages of their transformation into leather belts
and bags. Working my way around the site I peeped at the results
of this age-old process through the bunch of mint leaves I'd
thoughtfully been given to sniff.
It's behind-the-scenes in the famous souks of Marrakech's
Medina or old town where, if you're prepared to get
a little lost, you'll find some of the most memorable
sights (and smells). Elsewhere among the crooked lanes I saw
gates and lanterns being beaten out on blacksmiths'
forges and newly dyed wool and cloth in bright oranges, pinks
and greens being strung out to dry above the rickety roofs
of the market stalls.
The labyrinthine souks of Marrakech spread from the North
side of the city's famous Djemma el Fna square, its
social and touristical heart, and browsing them is one of
the greatest shopping experiences in the world.
Once you've tracked down your purchases by heading
for themed sections such as basketware or spices, the fun
really begins because the locals excel not only in craftsmanship
but sales. The general rule of offering around a third of
a seller's first price then haggling to a midway point
has no truck in Marrakech. Most traders insisted I named a
price first or themselves picked a figure so outlandish I
couldn't guess where they'd finally settle.
Quizzing other tourists on their purchases helps, as does the
old trick of feigning only casual interest in a desired item
and walking away if the price remains high. I finally emerged
triumphant with a colourful glass necklace, two hand-woven baskets
and, my visit falling just before Christmas, an array of chunky
candles and metal patio lanterns for presents. The lanes are
stuffed full of much more: handmade hats and bags, embroidered
slippers, patterned pottery, silk rugs, even studded doors and
swords. I almost literally bought the kitchen sink when a beautiful
beaten copper basin drew my eye.
To really appreciate the world of the souk it's best
to get high. Not in the way Marrakech's first wave of
tourists, the hippies, did in the 60s and 70s but by finding
a roof terrace.
Café des Epices (www.cafedesepices.net
for French speakers) affords great people-watching opportunities
over a small square within the souks. From here I viewed veiled
women creating intricate henna tattoos on tourists' arms
and a hat seller leading would-be purchasers back to his wares
with the promise of his 'best price'.
As the sun starts to sink however, it's the terraces
around the vast Djemma el Fna (Cafe Glacier's is a top
spot) that are the place to be. Here, with a sugar-laden mint
tea, you can rest your camera on the balcony edge and watch
the epic transformation as carts stacked with metal poles
swiftly become hundreds of food stalls strung with lights
and street performers appear to charm snakes, tell stories
or pull themselves into impressive human pyramids.
When the giant outdoor nightspot is complete, slip down amongst
the twisting charcoal smoke and you'll find the fresh
orange juice and date purveyors of the day have been joined
by rows of others selling bowls of snails (a legacy of French
rule) and meze-style Moroccan delicacies.
"Jamie Oliver is my brother!" claimed the proprietor
of one makeshift restaurant as I passed. It had the desired
effect of making me stop and laugh and I was soon seated before
a spread of bread, olives and spicy tomato paste, watching
my calamari, kebabs and, melt-in-the-mouth aubergine slices
being prepared 'live' on a charcoal hob.
Like the ubiquitous Moroccan tagine of steamed lamb or vegetables
with cous cous, it's a dining experience not to be missed
while in Marrakech, but do check you're paying for what
you actually ate and politely query any discrepancies as substantial
over-billing and short-changing is rife at eateries in and
around the square.
Handicraft shopping and food are key elements of the cultural
experience of Marrakech but for finer arts head for some of
its palaces, mosques and museums.
The 12th century built Koutoubia Mosque with it towering
minaret is a landmark near the Djemma el Fna worth further
exploration as is 16th century Ali ben Youssef Medersa, Morocco's
largest theological college, which is know for its fine stucco
work. Also in the Medina, Bahia Palace, said to have once
housed a harem, has 160 rooms boasting fine ceramic work and
painted ceilings set around a series of courtyards.
You'll recognise the distinctive Moroccan decorative
style from its humbler forms at home: star-shaped lanterns,
coloured tea glasses, geometric patterned tiles and their
like have evolved from student bed-sit clutter into fashionable
home furnishings in recent years.
What you may not realise is Marrakech's influence on your
garden. If any cobalt blue plant pots grace your patio they
will almost certainly have been inspired by the city's
Jardin Marjorelle (www.jardinmajorelle.com/en),
which was owned by Yves Saint Laurent from 1980 until his death
last year. The garden was once reproduced at Chelsea Flower
Show and its bold blue fountains, walls and pottery sparked
a wave of garden centre reproductions that continues to this
day.
It's thanks to a centuries old underground irrigation
system that gardens like Majorelle, as well as the city's
palm trees, can thrive in the arid landscape. You can wander
and wonder at this cooling respite from the city with its
shady paths and trickling water (and get a giggle from the
much-photographed giant phallic cacti near the entrance).
Another cleansing escape can be sought in a traditional Hammam.
The public version will see you scrubbed, massaged with oily
soap and sloshed with bucketfuls of very hot water (wear bikini
bottoms, girls) in a tiled communal room with men and women
divided by different sections or sessions. Among the public
hammams near the square is Hammam da Pacha on Fatima Zahra
which has a traditional dome studded with light holes, though
it helps if you can speak French or Arabic to the rather grumpy
attendants. For a more modern, gentler, spa experience still
incorporating the traditional use of steam, look to your hotel
or one of the private hammams you'll be handed flyers
for.
Your skin aglow, you may decide you want a little more from
a night on the town than Djemma el Fna has to offer, in which
case head for one of Marrakech's modern nightspots. Among
the most popular is Pacha, www.pachamarrakech.com
a restaurant-cum-club sister to the Ibiza icon. It's a
classy joint, with a swimming pool on its outside terraces,
though be warned, you may find the drinks prices as hard to
stomach as a whiff of peegeensheet.
When to go
Spring and autumn have the most comfortable temperatures
(it can reach up to 40°C in summer) though as winters
are mild Christmas and New Year breaks are popular.
Getting there
Airlines serving Marrakech include Atlas Blue www.atlas-blue.com,
British Airways www.ba.com,
easyJet www.easyjet.com,
Ryanair www.ryanair.com
and Thomsonfly www.thomsonfly.com
Accommodation
Accommodation providers include:
Octopus Travel www.octopustravel.co.uk
and Hip Marrakech www.hipmarrakech.com
Tour operators
UK operators offering Marrakech and beyond include:
Explore www.explore.co.uk
Classic Collection www.classic-collection.co.uk
The Adventure Company www.theadventurecompany.co.uk
Bales Worldwide www.balesworldwide.com
Ramblers Worldwide Holidays www.ramblersholidays.co.uk
Walks Worldwide www.walksworldwide.com
Local operators
Excursion operators include:
ItinerancePlus www.itineranceplus.com
Berber Adventures www.berberadventures.com
Getting around: many medina sites are walkable and taxis
are readily available (check the meter is running). 'Grands
taxis' seating up to six can be hired for longer trips.
A more atmospheric option is a horse-drawn carriage or Caleche,
available round touristy areas like the Djemma el Fna.
Moroccan National Tourist Office
www.visitmorocco.com
020 7437 0073
Tips
When choosing your Marrakech accommodation do consider a
romantic riad. From boho B&Bs to plush boutique hotels,
riads are converted from traditional homes with inner courtyards
and are plentiful in the old town.
One particularly upscale homage to Moroccan design is the palatial
La Mamounia hotel (www.mamounia.com)
which reopens this spring after major refurbishment. Notable
for its location, the nearest major hotel to Djemma al Fna (it's
virtually on the square) is the all-inclusive Club Med Village
Marrakech La Medina, one of three Marrakech resorts from this
company (www.clubmed.co.uk).
Morocco is a Muslim country so if you're a light sleeper
you may prefer accommodation in the new town, Ville Nouvelle,
rather than the medina where a higher concentration of mosques
sound the dawn call to prayer.
Beyond Marrakech
The Atlas mountains, snow-capped in winter, make a scenic
backdrop to Marrakech and the area around North Africa's
highest peak, Toubkal, is near enough for a day trip. Imlil,
about two hours from the city, is a popular starting point
for treks to Berber villages where you can join the indigenous
people for tea in their homes or a haggle in a market. Alternatively,
take a camel trek into the Sahara lead by a Taureg guide in
distinctive blue robes or visit the scenic port of Essaouira,
180 km from Marrakech, with its sweeping beach, white-washed
houses and artisans workshops.
Excursions of a day or longer can be booked through UK tour
operators or your Marrakech hotel, or you can arrange a 'grands
taxi' for a day-trip to Imlil.
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