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Debbie
Ward has spent more than 15 years
as a journalist, several as Features
Editor of Travel Trade Gazette.
She now works freelance.
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They've
steamed it all before in Iceland
Travel Trade Gazette
It's a long time since somebody told me how to wash myself,
so I was rather taken aback to see diagrams at a geothermal
pool in Reykjavik indicating where on my body I must use soap.
These ablutions, the signs said, must be performed naked and
for my group of prudish Brits, hoping to rush giggling through
the communal showers in our swimsuits, there was a shock in
store.
"Off!" yelled the stern shower matron pulling
one girl's shoulder straps. She then supervised her washing
while the rest of us dived into corners to avoid the gaze of
the bemused naked Icelanders around us.
I started to wonder whether we had strayed into a prison but
we were soon reclothed and out in the pool with its slides and
sweet tasting steamy water.
There are numerous public thermal pools in Reykjavik and beyond,
the most famous being the Blue Lagoon, a handy 10 miles from
the airport. Here the same 'how to wash' charts are displayed
but visitors are given the privacy of shower curtains.
The lagoon is a natural experience. Rather than tiles there
is soft silicone mud underfoot and the occasional volcanic rock
ready to stub unwary toes. Steam drifts eerily from the creamy
blue water and you can make things even more ghostly by slapping
on a white mud face pack. With massages and other spa treatments
on offer, a trip here could certainly fill half a day.
Icelanders may tell you how to wash at their swimming pools
but when it comes to safety this is no 'nanny state'. You can
move from warm to scalding hot within a metre in the Blue Lagoon
but locals are happy to bring their babies in for a dip. Out
on the famous Golden Circle touring route I leant over the churning
waters of Gulfoss - the largest waterfall in Europe and walked
right up to the Geyser at Geysir, camera poised. Neither had
barriers or guards and there were few danger signs, which is
perhaps why I wasn't alone in childishly dipping a finger into
a pool edged with yellow sulphur crystals to confirm that yes,
it was indeed scalding hot.
Icelanders are blasé about their steaming, erupting island.
A tour guide told us she'd seen a volcano blow its top three
times before she was 30. Back in Reykjavik teenagers were skateboarding
past steam vents in the square outside our hotel while Hydrogen
buses passed by with white plumes of steam rising from chimneys
on their roofs.
Reykjavik's modern buildings reminded me of the US. The city
does however retain a small town charm. Beside the much photographed
lake I saw a teenager leap from a car, pass a plastic bag to
a hooded friend and run off. It looked like a drugs deal until
I saw the boy had scored nothing more than a loaf of stale bread
for feeding the swans.
On a hill above the shopping streets is the dramatic 75 metre
tall rocket shaped Hallgrimskirkja church, the design of which
was inspired by Iceland's basalt columns and mountains. A statue
in front depicts explorer Leif Eiriksson who supposedly discovered
America before Columbus. The National Museum of Iceland has
more on the country's history. Displays include amazingly well
preserved Viking brooches and horse harnesses, 14th century
seal harpoons, whale ribs fashioned into boat runners and reconstructions
of traditional farmers' homes.
While Reykjavik is known for its good nightlife, visitors are
likely to remain sober.
One thing I cannot stress enough is how expensive every day
items are in Iceland.
Imagine you were forced to buy all your snacks and drinks from
UK motorway service stations and you'll get the idea. Of course
those with cash to splash will certainly find the quality of
food far exceeds Little Chef. Fish is naturally much in evidence
and lamb stew another traditional dish. Expect to pay £60-80
a head in a mid- to up market restaurants.
One way of controlling costs is to take an escorted tour with
all or most meals included. Bringing your favourite tipple with
you also helps. And remember, there's more than one way to get
steaming in Iceland.
Costs
High taxes and the need to import most goods makes everything
in Iceland two or three times more expensive than the UK. Here
are some examples:
Medium bag of Minstrels: £4
Cheese sandwich: £5
Soup and roll: £5
Bus from Airport to Reykjavik: £10
Kebab and chips: £10
Chinese or Indian main course with rice: £10-15
Pizza: £20
Bottle of wine in a restaurant : £50
Tips
Take tours with most meals included.
Comparing prices on menus posted outside restaurants can help
shave a fiver here and there.
Take a bottle of your favourite tipple. There's a duty free
store in the arrivals lounge at the airport, though it's still
cheaper to bring drink from home.
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