Debbie Ward
 Debbie Ward has spent more than 15 years as a journalist, several as Features Editor of Travel Trade Gazette.
 She now works freelance.
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Australia Dusk Till Dawn

TTG Australia and New Zealand supplement


Australia evokes images of sun-baked red earth and endless beaches but some of its most special experiences can be had by night. You can find romance in the twinkling lights of Sydney harbour or the stars over the Outback or get spooked on a ghost tour of a convict heritage site. Discover Australia's natural nocturnal wonders by torchlight on land and underwater and be introduced to amazing Aboriginal cultural tales around a campfire.

Not only are night time experiences atmospheric, if you're visiting in the heat of summer, flopping by day and exploring after sundown can have practical benefits.

Only in Oz experiences

Watching the sunset at Uluru

No visit to the Red Centre would be complete without watching the sunset at Uluru when the colour of the rock changes through shades of red and orange.

Backpackers and luxury travellers alike traditionally toast the sundown with a glass of bubbly at their various vantage points. But for the full sense of occasion nothing beats the Sounds of Silence dinner at Ayers Rock Resort with tables set with candles and white linen arranged in the red earth. Unsentimental types can tuck into indigenous animals like kangaroo and emu as part of the barbecue buffet and, of course, there's fine Aussie wine to wash it down.

Sample:   Travel 2's Essential Uluru tour incorporates the Sounds of Silence dinner and guided tours of the Olga Gorge and Uluru. Prices start from £267 including two nights accommodation at the Voyages Outback Pioneer and return airport transfers.

0800 0224 302     www.travel2.com

Aboriginal campfire experience

Nobody should visit Australia without learning something about Aboriginal culture and perhaps the most atmospheric way is around a campfire. There are several places you can have such an experience across Australia, some more accessible than others.

Many tours of Queensland incorporate the popular Tjapukai Cultural Park at Cairns. Tjapukai By Night is the centre's outdoor dinner show with dancing and fire-making demonstrations and Dreamtime stories brought to life with special effects.

At Western Australia's famous Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort a Didgeridoo Dreaming evening led by an Aboriginal guide takes place around a campfire in the sand dunes.

For a truly naturalistic experience you can visit Aboriginal communities in remote environments. In Northern Territory, one of the local operators taking this approach is Gunya Tourism which offers deluxe camping stays with the Titjikala community 120 km south of Alice Springs. Guests can learn about bush tucker, art or other specific interests and, at night, sit around the campfire listening to Dreamtime stories from community elders.



Sample:   Jetset can offer an overnight Aboriginal cultural tour from Broome to the Kimberley outback. The personally escorted tour with aboriginal guide includes genuine under-the-stars living and dining. This combines well with a seven night stay at the four star Rendezvous Sanctuary Resort in Broome. Prices start at £2,299 per person, room only, twin share with return Qantas flights to Broome.

0845 02 52 777     www.jetsetflights.co.uk


Night diving on the Great Barrier Reef

Experienced divers can enjoy the eerie thrill of the Great Barrier Reef by night. Torchlight picks out the intense colours of the coral, crustaceans creeping across the ocean floor and the shadowy shapes and glinting eyes of predators coming out to hunt.

Sample:   Dive Worldwide offers three day/three night liveaboard trips on the Spirit of Freedom, an air-conditioned vessel, with twelve spacious, en-suite cabins, large dive deck and bar. Tours depart from Cairns on Mondays and cost from £630 per person including arrival transfer, low level scenic flight from Lizard Island to Cairns, liveaboard accommodation, all meals on board and 11 dives (including at least one night dive) with tanks and weights. Four and seven day options are also available.

0845 130 6980     www.diveworldwide.com


Adventurous experiences

Nocturnal wildlife encounters

It was its blood curdling yells that earned the Tasmanian Devil its name. Early settlers lived in fear of the creature behind the sounds which turned out to be a small but ferocious-looking carnivorous marsupial. You can listen out for the cry on a night tour in Cradle Mountain National Park as tour guides use spotlights mounted on jeeps to pick out shy nocturnal animals including, hopefully, devils in the bush.

At Cape Tribulation, Queensland, where Daintree National Park meets the Great Barrier Reef, you can take torchlit tours of the 135 million year-old rainforest. You might see fireflies and glow-in-the-dark fungi and follow the trail of bigger creatures like bandicoots and Cassowaries.

Perhaps the most reliable evening animal encounter is the famous Penguin Parade at Phillip Island which is featured by many operators. Every dusk at this point, about 85 miles south of Melbourne, hundreds of 'fairy' or 'little' penguins waddle out of the sea to their nests in the hills, seemingly oblivious to the terrace of watching tourists.

Sample:   Qantas Holidays offers a multi-centre holiday which includes the nocturnal wildlife spotlight tour at Cradle Mountain. The package incorporates two nights in four star accommodation in Melbourne, seven nights on an APT Gourmet Wanderer Tour of Tasmania incorporating Launceston, Freycinet, Hobart, Strahan and Cradle Mountain, and three nights' four star accommodation in Sydney. The cost, from £2,618 per person, includes Qantas flights and is based on twin share.

020 8222 9128      www.qantas.co.uk/holidays

Night tours of former jails

Infamous outlaw Ned Kelly was among 136 prisoners hanged at Melbourne Gaol between 1842 and 1929. You can take a spooky candlelit night tour of what is claimed to be Australia's most haunted building, guided by an 'executioner'. In the cells you'll come face to face with the former inmates, or at least with their plaster death masks. These model heads were made in the belief that studying the contours of offenders' scalps could help the authorities recognise the lumps and bumps that indicated criminal tendencies. Other highlights are the scaffold on which Kelly met his death and a suit of the famous Kelly Gang armour which was fashioned from a melted plough. Night tours are also available at the decommissioned Fremantle Prison in Perth.

Another unsettling experience is offered at Port Arthur in Tasmania, once an infamous penal colony where thousands of convicts worked shipbuilding, timber cutting and brick-making during the 19th century. Nightly lantern-lit tours of the Port Arthur Historic Site tell of the ghostly goings-on reported there from the convicts' times to the present day.

Sample:   Keith Prowse sells the See Melbourne & Beyond card which offers free entry to over 60 attractions across Melbourne and Victoria, including Old Melbourne Gaol and the Penguin Parade (above). A one day card costs £30.

08701 232425     www.keithprowse.com/agents

The Hangman's Night Tour at the Gaol must be pre-booked.  See www.oldmelbournegaol.com.au


Romantic experiences

Stargazing in the Outback

The lack of light pollution makes the night sky amazing over rural and Outback Australia. You can see the Southern Cross, spot familiar constellations upside down from our UK viewpoint and pick out the shape of the Aboriginals' emu spirit in the Milky Way. Many outback tours and experiences, including the Sounds Of Silence dinner (above), incorporate a spot of expert-led star gazing. For a more detailed view visit the observatories at Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary in South Australia's Flinders Ranges. The skies here are said to be among the clearest in the Southern Hemisphere and you can look through a giant telescope or try gazing from a reclining Star Chair while astronomers tell you about the origins of the solar system.

Every January Arkaroola hosts the Star Party DownUnder (correct) with several days of lecturers suitable for enthusiastic amateurs.

Sample:   Qantas Holidays offers a fully-escorted four day tour from Adelaide which includes a stay at Arkaroola. Prices start from £751 per person inclusive of all park entry fees and some meals. The tour also takes in the Clare Valley wine region, Southern Flinders, Wilpena Pound, Bunyeroo and Brachina Gorges and the old Ghan railway line. The price is per person based on two adults sharing.

City lights at night

Sydney is one of the world's most beautifully situated cities and its iconic bridge and opera house look even more impressive spotlit at night. Savour that harbour view over dinner or cocktails at the Astral Bar at Star City entertainment complex, the Opera Bar at Sydney Opera House, Café Sydney on the rooftop of Customs House at Circular Quay, or 360 Bar and Dining at the top of Sydney Tower.

The Park Hyatt, Shangri-La, Intercontinental and Four Seasons are among hotels where you can book a room with a harbour view.

The famous BridgeClimb over Sydney Harbour Bridge operates daily twilight and night experiences and, on the first Saturday of each month, a dawn climb. It's a popular spot for popping the question and the city lights at night add to the sense of romance.


Sample:   Travel 2's Sydney in Style package including a harbour view room at the Park Hyatt costs from £661 per person. The price covers three nights accommodation, limousine transfers, guided Sydney sightseeing by car, yacht and helicopter and a meal with wine at the famous Doyle's fish restaurant. A BridgeClimb from £77 per person, day or night, can be added to this or any other Sydney package.

0800 0224 302     www.travel2.com

Dawn Balloon flights

Australia's scenic wine country is particularly spectacular when viewed from the air bathed in golden light. Climatic conditions for hot air ballooning are generally good around dawn and flights at this time are offered in the Barossa Valley in South Australia, Hunter Valley in New South Wales and the Yarra Valley in Victoria. There are also ballooning possibilities over Australia's major cities. For a bit of extra romance, some operators follow the return to earth with a champagne breakfast.

Sample:   Gold Medal can offer a six night holiday comprising three nights room-only at the four star Cosmopolitan Hotel, Melbourne and a four day Melbourne surrounds self- drive package for a total £1,299. The price also includes return flights and a one hour balloon flight over the Yarra Valley, available at dawn. The price is valid for departures between February 1 and February 20 2008, booked by December 4.

0844 493 0077     www.goldmedal.co.uk


Published in TTG Sell More Australia and New Zealand supplement November 2007



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