Debbie Ward
 Debbie Ward has spent more than 15 years as a journalist, several as Features Editor of Travel Trade Gazette.
 She now works freelance.
Home
Travel
Other Features
Copywriting
About me
Contact me


Travel
Notes From A Small island: Sri Lanka

ABTA Magazine


For a country little bigger than Ireland, Sri Lanka packs an amazingly diverse tourist experience. Its topography encompasses jungle, mountains, plains and tropical beaches while its seven World Heritage attractions include some of the most important Buddhist sites on the planet. Some consider Sri Lanka a soft option for those nervous of tackling India but its hardly a second-best destination that lets you stand in the ruins of an ancient citadel atop a giant rock, bathe an orphaned baby elephant or have a chance of spotting a wild leopard.

With tourists unable to marry in the nearby Maldives, a honeymoon favourite, Sri Lanka sees many foreign weddings, and the great cricketing country is also well trodden by the Barmy Army. More recently, the rise of Western interest in Ayurvedic treatments has given the destination another tourism niche.

Now Sri Lanka has ambitious plans to capture the green market with the government's Earth Lung project seeking commitment from the travel industry to help make Sri Lanka 'the world's first carbon neutral tourism destination'. Travel companies associated with the country will be asked to reduce their carbon footprint and join a research community to promote long-term green practices worldwide.

One of the most remarked-upon features of Sri Lanka is the famously warm welcome it extends to tourists. They are certainly never taken for granted in a country that has had more than its share of troubles. Resorts now show little trace of the 2004 tsunami but political tensions continue with the end, this January, of an uneasy six year ceasefire between the government and Tamil separatists marked by several bomb blasts.

So far tourist confidence does not appear greatly dented by the violence, with UK arrivals for the first three months of the year up on 2007. Steve Norris, head of UK marketing for Flight Centre says: "Sri Lanka has been a growth destination for us over the last few years and the recent troubles do not seem to have affected the tourist trade - in fact travel to the country seems to have increased."

With the North and East generally designated no-go areas by the UK Foreign Office, tourism is mostly confined to the usually peaceful southwest and central areas which, fortunately, embrace the island's major sights. A typical Sri Lanka holiday combines a beach break with cultural touring to the UNESCO sites of Kandy, Dambulla and Sigiriya and the tea plantations of the hill country.

NUMBER OF UK VISITORS: 94,000 in 2007, a nearly 7 % increase on the previous year and the country's second best tourism year ever. Target of 98,000 for 2008.

UK TOURIST BOARD CONTACT: UK director Sanjika Perera, 1, Devonshire Square, London EC2M 4WD 0845 880 6333, info@srilankatourism.org,uk, www.srilankatourism.org.uk

CAMPAIGN FOR 2008: Joint marketing continues with 25 operators, who pledged approximately £0.5 million to promote the country during 07/08.

GEOGRAPHY:
Sri Lanka lies in the Indian Ocean off south east India. It has a sandy coastline and an interior comprising plains and a central highlands. It is lushest in the south.

Beach

Colourful boats drawn up on golden sand, backdrops thick with wild palms and rows of stilt fisherman silhouetted against the setting sun give character to Sri Lanka's beautiful coastline.

The most popular tourist beaches are found on Sri Lanka's southwest corner stretching from Negombo, just above Colombo, to beyond Galle at the island's southern tip.

Negombo is a popular choice due to its proximity to Colombo's international airport, just six km away, and is consequently the island's most developed resort. Bentota, another favourite, and attractive Beruwela to its north are known for a good choice of upmarket hotels plus Ayurvedic resorts.

Nightlife is generally low key on Sri Lanka but partly lovers will enjoy Hikkaduwa which is also good for watersports and diving and is especially known for surfing.

In the south, near Galle, the family resort of Unawatuna it is also a popular base for divers, the reef having been surprisingly undamaged by the 2004 Tsunami. Unawatuna is set in a sheltered bay, but the sea can be rough elsewhere on the coast, so it's a good idea to book a hotel with a decent sized pool.

  • Hayes & Jarvis has seven nights at the three star Hotel Serendib, Bentota, Sri Lanka, which has sports and spa facilities, for £799 per person, based on two sharing, departing November 7 2008. The package includes seven nights half board and return flights from Heathrow with Qatar Airways. 0871 664 0246 www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk

    Culture

    Compact cultural touring doesn't come much better than in Sri Lanka with the island boasting no fewer than six cultural World Heritage Sites.

    Undoubtedly the most visually impressive among them is Sigiriya. The ruins of a 5th century royal citadel - complete with swimming pool, top this lone giant rock surrounded by jungle. The steep climb, through ancient water gardens, past rather risqué frescos and up between the feet of what was once an enormous stone lion, is well worth the effort, though best made in the early morning to avoid the heat and crowds. At nearby Dambulla, a shorter climb rewards you with hundreds of golden Buddha statues set in richly frescoed caves, in a landscape presided over by squabbling monkeys.

    The classic cultural triangle tour links Dambulla and Sigiriya with Kandy, home to the revered Temple of the Tooth, and the beautifully carved ruins of medieval capital Polonnaruwa where there is an important trilogy of giant Buddhas.

    For those who have the time, cultural highlights further a field include Galle (see below) and the religiously significant Anuradhapura and Mihintale where sights include a tree said to have been cut from the one under which Buddha received enlightenment.

  • Kuoni offers an eight night Sri Lanka Highlights escorted tour taking in Kandy, Sigiriya, Dambulla and Polonnaruwa plus Nuwara Eliya tea plantations and Pinnawela elephant orphanage. Prices for August 2008 are from £1175 per person based on two sharing, on a mixed meal plan, including flights with Sri Lankan Airlines from Heathrow. 01306 747008, www.kuoni.co.uk

    City

    Colombo makes an easy add-on at the start or end of a holiday. This international gateway is short on must-see attractions but it does boast some colonial architecture and there are bargains to be found in the department stores and the bazaar district of Pettah where streets specialise in particular wares. Respite from the manic traffic can be found with the kite-flyers at seafront Galle Face Green or in Vihara Mahaderi Park which includes a botanical gardens and the national museum. The recent opening of the chic 10 suite Tintagel hotel has drawn Colombo attention from the luxury market.

    At Sri Lanka's southernmost tip, Galle is famous for its World Heritage fort. The ramparts, surrounded on three sides by the Indian Ocean, encircle a citadel of attractive colonial buildings and museums. The city will also be familiar to sports fans for its International Cricket Stadium.

    Hill encircled Kandy is included in many tour itineraries for the Temple of the Tooth. Inside this lakeside building Buddhists lay flowers before the multi-layered casket in which the relic is held, in an atmosphere spiked with incense and beating drums. Those visiting in July/August can enjoy the extra special spectacle of the Esala Perahera festival with illuminated elephants, dancers and thousands of pilgrims in procession.

    The famous botanical gardens at nearby Peradeniya are among the best in Asia.

  • Gold Medal is offering six nights bed and breakfast for the price of three at five star The Fortress, in Galle. The holiday, including Emirates flights from Gatwick, costs from £879 per person, twin share, (departures September 1 to November 30 2008), saving clients £160. For every additional night booked, at £52 per person, a further night comes free, to a maximum of 10 free nights. 0844 493 4444 www.goldmedal.co.uk.

    Wildlife/Eco

    The only animal encounter most Sri Lanka visitors experience is watching the elephants bathe at Pinnawela Elephant Orphanage, but with 17 national parks, the island has plenty more for nature lovers.

    It's a little known fact that Sri Lanka is one of the best places in the world to spot leopards, with Yala National Park boasting a high concentration of the cats. The Foreign Office is currently advising against travel to this popular park but there are plenty of eco alternatives including savannah style Uda Walawe National Park - a favourite for viewing elephants and birdlife - and Sinharaja forest reserve which is UNESCO listed.

    In Sri Lanka's highlands the air is cooler and the scenery sweeping. Nuwara Eliya is tea country, characterised by spiral-shaped plantations and colonial buildings. Hikers will be rewarded with great views from nearby Horton Plains and Adam's Peak - a scared mountain topped by a revered giant 'footprint'.

    Sri Lanka offers several eco-conscious accommodation options including the strikingly designed Heritance Kandalama near Sigiriya which is almost overgrown by its natural surroundings and The Hide@Kalametiya, from green-minded hotel group Jetwing, which is located near a bird sanctuary and supports community-based ecotourism projects.

  • Travel 2 can arrange a wilderness stay at any of Sri Lanka's national parks, in tents with fixed beds. Prices start from £345 per person for two nights accommodation on a twin share basis, inclusive of game drives, park fees and all meals. It also offers butler-attended bungalows in tea country areas from £115 per person, per night, twin share, on an all-inclusive basis. 0800 0224 302 www.travel2.com.

    Travel essentials

    WHEN TO GO: The main tourist areas of the Southwest and hill country are driest late October to early March. Temperatures vary little year-round but the highlands are always cooler.

    CURRENCY: Sri Lankan Rupees. £1 = LKR 212.50

    TIME DIFFERENCE: GMT + 5.5

    INTERNATIONAL DIALLING CODE: 00 94

    LANGUAGE: Officially Sinhala and Tamil but English is widely spoken.

    HEALTH: Malaria precautions are necessary in parts of the interior

    RED TAPE: visas not required for stays of up to 30 days.

    GETTING THERE: Flight options include:
    SriLankan Airlines: 12 direct flights weekly from Heathrow, and codeshares with Etihad.
    Qatar Airways: via Doha 28 times a week (14 from Heathrow, and daily from Gatwick and Manchester).
    Emirates: 98 flights a week (Heathrow, Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester, Newcastle and Glasgow) to Dubai, with connection possible to 17 Colombo services.
    Kuwait Airways: four flights a week from Heathrow via Kuwait
    Royal Jordanian Airlines: twice weekly from Heathrow via Amman
    First Choice: weekly (fortnightly in winter) from Gatwick.

    AVERAGE FLIGHT TIME: around 10.5 hrs direct.

    GETTING AROUND:
    It's safer to let a local negotiate the crazy traffic. Hiring an air con car or van with driver, (around 25p a km) is a good option for touring. Chauffer driven jeeps (from about £25-35 for a 3-4 hour tour) can be hired at the entrance to national parks.

    Train travel is preferable to public buses but long distance tickets should be bought in advance. Auto rickshaws and taxis are suitable for local travel.



    Return to top


    Click here to read the orginal article, pages 82-88